How to Plant Staghorn Ferns

Lacy, feathery, delicate fronds usually come to mind when you think of a fern. Staghorn ferns (Platycerium spp.) depart from this image, having instead tough, massive, leathery fronds that are forked like deer antlers. Their growth habit is also atypical for ferns. The 17 species of staghorn ferns live on tree branches rather than in the ground, getting nutrition from the organic material, such as tree leaves, that settles around them and forms a loose, humus-like layer. Most staghorns live in areas of abundant rainfall, but water quickly drains away from their aerial perches. To grow staghorns, recreate their natural environment as closely as possible.

Staghorn ferns attach themselves to surfaces by means of hairlike roots and basal sterile fronds, which are plate-like or shield-shaped. As this bottommost frond grows, it curves around the base it's on, attaching itself but with an open area behind it, which accumulates organic debris. New sterile fronds form as old ones turn brown and die, and these layers of old fronds also trap organic matter. The conspicuous forked fertile fronds, which produce the spores or reproductive units of the fern,, rise above the sterile fronds. Young staghorns aren't usually planted in the ordinary sense. Instead, mount the staghorn to a base that it can attach to or provide it with a wire hanging basket it can grow around.

Because staghorn ferns don't need soil and grow into large specimens, about the only time you'll find them in a pot is when they are newly separated offsets and still small. This is the potted size you'll usually find for sale. They're put in peat moss, sphagnum or a mixture similar to that used for orchids which also grow in trees.

A plaque is a flat piece of wood or bark that's usually decorative in its own right. Mount the staghorn fern so it's projecting sideways from the plaque. Choose a plaque that's substantially larger than the basal frond to give the fern room to grow. Position the basal frond about a third up from the bottom of the plaque, and mound a couple handfuls of organic material such as aged compost, peat or sphagnum moss between the basal frond and the plaque. Use nylon hose, nylon fishing line, strips of plastic or non-copper wire to tie the fern to the plaque. Fronds eventually cover the mounting materials. You can also use a slatted wooden frame.

Since the staghorn fern becomes heavy as it grows, use a well-made, substantial wire basket. After filling it with organic material such as aged compost, peat or sphagnum that's firmly packed down, put the fern on top of the material and fasten it in place with nylon fishing line, nylon hose or non-copper wire. Then turn the basket on its side so the fern projects out parallel to the ground, and hang the basket sideways. The fern eventually covers the basket.

Most staghorn ferns come from tropical and subtropical climates and are harmed by freezing weather. These species are indoor or greenhouse plants. Some are more cold hardy, such as the most widely grown staghorn fern (Platycerium bifurcatum), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 12. Older outdoor specimens can become heavy, sometimes weighing several hundred pounds, and need substantial hanging devices such as chains.

In his book, "The Art of South Florida Gardening," author Harold Songdahl describes a pipe support used by gardeners to hang staghorns from strong tree branches. First drive a length of male-threaded 1/2-inch wide galvanized pipe vertically through the fern's center. The pipe should be long enough to extend a few inches on each side of the fern's root ball. To the projecting pipe base, attach a female-threaded T-shaped connector pipe. Connect two pipes that are about half the size of the staghorn's root ball width to each side of the T. These support the fern. The staghorn will grow around and hide these structures. Put an eye on the top of the pipe for attaching the chain. Cover the part of the chain that goes over the tree branch with a piece of rubber garden hose to avoid damaging the branch.

Staghorns thrive in bright, indirect light or filtered sunlight both indoors and outdoors. Too much direct sunlight burns fronds.

Water staghorns by spraying or misting the fertile fronds and also by applying water to the basal fronds and roots, but in lesser amounts. In hot, dry summer areas twice weekly watering might be needed. In cooler areas, water once a week in summer. In winter or during rainy periods, decrease watering to about every two weeks. Every so often, soak the entire basal area in water for a few minutes and then let it drain. Don't soak the fertile fronds.

During warm months of the year when staghorn ferns are growing, fertilize them monthly with a water-soluble fertilizer such as 20-20-20. Mix 1/2 teaspoon into every 2 quarts of water used and pour it over the plant, both the fronds and base. During cool months when the fern's growth slows, fertilize every other month.