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How to Build a Simple Sloped Top Shed

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How to Build a Simple Sloped Top Shed

How to Build a Simple Sloped Top Shed. A sloped roof shed design, also known as a pent roof design, is a simple design that creates a structure that is more conducive to adverse weather like ice and snow. This type of roof is also easier to build than other shed roofs, because it doesn't require a complicated underlying structure in order to hold...

A sloped roof shed design, also known as a pent roof design, is a simple design that creates a structure that is more conducive to adverse weather like ice and snow. This type of roof is also easier to build than other shed roofs, because it doesn't require a complicated underlying structure in order to hold its shape. The sloped structure of a pent roof can also be created with materials that in other types of roof design, would not provide enough stability for the shed.
Things You'll Need
2 2-inch-by-4-inch by-8-foot wood planks
4 4-inch-by-4-inch-by-8-foot treated wood posts
6 2-inch-by-12-inch-by-8-foot treated wood planks
6 4-foot-by-8-foot sheets of pressure treated plywood
9 Deck piers
Mono pitch roof trusses
Galvanized nails
Cement screws
Drill
Shovel
Quick dry Cement
Hammer
Rubber mallet
4-inch square piece of scrap wood
Level
Measuring tape
Metal angle brackets
Electric sander
Table, band or reciprocating saw
Prebuilt shed door frame
Wood shims
Nail gun
Choose a relatively level location for your shed. Dig nine equally spaced holes large enough to fit the deck piers. Ideally, for equal weight distribution, you want to choose a square base design and place a pier at each corner, between each corner pier and in the center. Dig a hole for each pier that is a bit deeper and wider than your chosen pier.
Mix cement according to manufacturer's directions, or use premixed cement. Pour into each pier to approximately one-half inch from the top of the pier. Check each pier for level when you've set it in place or filled it with cement. Use a rubber mallet to tamp the pier into a level position. Place the scrap wood over the pier before tamping, to protect the pier. Allow cement to set completely, according to manufacturer's directions. If you will be attached the lumber to the piers with cement screws, drill pilot holes in the piers for each screw.
Create a structural grid out of 8-foot long treated posts. Attach one 8-foot post to the cement piers located on the outside of the grid first, using the galvanized nails or cement screws. Next, attach an 8-foot long post to the center piers, parallel to the first 8-foot post. Finally, attach a third 8-foot post to the last three piers, parallel to the other two. Check each plank for level and use the scrap wood and mallet to tamp each into a level position.
Cut the remaining 8-foot posts into pieces measured to fit between each of the three pieced already installed in the grid. Using metal angle brackets and galvanized screws, attach and secure each piece of wood. When finished, you should have nine individual openings, framed by the lumber secured to the piers. Double-check the foundation grid for level.
Nail or screw the sheets of plywood to the grid, beginning at one outer edge and matching the long edge of the plywood to an outer edge of the grid. Cover the whole grid and if necessary, sand down the sharp edges of the plywood that lie at the outer edges of the grid.
Attach the premade door frame to the front of the shed, nailing through the base of the frame, through the floor into the 8-foot planks on the piers. Check for level before securing the frame permanently. Use wood shims as necessary to level the frame.
Create the walls of the shed by first framing them out with a single 4-inch-by-8-foot plank attached to each outer corner, using metal angle brackets, predrilling pilot holes with a drill and screwing in place.
Measure the space between each corner and the next and cut the 2-inch-by-8-inch posts to fit in the space. Secure the planks to the floor edge of the shed between each corner post with galvanized nails. Do not attach any wood within the door frame.
Cut the 2-inch-by-8-inch planks into pieces to fit the top of each individual frame, extending to cover each end post. Attach the top frame pieces with galvanized nails or screws and metal angle brackets. Check for level before securing permanently.
Measure, cut and nail 2-inch-by-4-inch planks to the inside of each wall frame, 12 inches to 14 inches apart. Secure to the respective frame using galvanized nails and metal brackets.
Attach a sloped mono-pitch roof truss to the tops of the outer side frames, using galvanized nails and metal brackets.
Place a mono-pitch truss every 12 inches, parallel to the first two and attached at the front and back of the truss, using galvanized nails and metal brackets.
Attach pressure treated plywood sheets, galvanized steel sheeting or corrugated weatherproof greenhouse siding to the trusses. Start at the bottom of the slope and work your way upward, overlapping each roof piece by 2 inches to allow water to run off without leeching into the inside of the shed.
Cut and attach pressure treated plywood sheets to the sides of the shed, using a nail gun and galvanized nails. Cover the angled portions of the trusses with the same plywood, measured and cut to fit the pitch.
Attach the door to its hinges and if necessary, screw in a locking hinge or similar locking mechanism for security.

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